Day 1: Old Delhi Sensory Overload
8:00 AM - Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. Climb the southern minaret (₹300) for panoramic Old Delhi views. Dress modestly and remove shoes. Free entry, open after morning prayers.
9:30 AM - Chandni Chowk walking food tour (self-guided): Start at Paranthe Wali Gali for stuffed parathas (₹50-80 each), continue to Natraj Dahi Bhalla Chaat (₹60), then Old Famous Jalebi Wala for piping hot jalebis (₹40/plate). The lanes are narrow and chaotic — embrace it.
12:00 PM - Red Fort (₹35 Indian, ₹550 foreign). Explore the Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, and the museum inside. Budget 1.5-2 hours. The light-and-sound show at night is skippable.
2:30 PM - Cycle-rickshaw through Old Delhi's spice market (Khari Baoli — Asia's largest wholesale spice market). The smell of cardamom and turmeric is overwhelming.
4:00 PM - Raj Ghat, the memorial where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. A peaceful green space — a calm contrast after Old Delhi's chaos.
6:30 PM - Dinner at Karim's (near Jama Masjid, established 1913). Mughlai classics: mutton korma, butter chicken, and roomali roti. Budget ₹400-600 per person.
Day 2: New Delhi & Mughal Monuments
8:00 AM - Humayun's Tomb (₹35/₹550). The architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal. Gardens are perfectly symmetrical. Early morning light is magical and crowds are minimal. Budget 1.5 hours.
10:30 AM - Lodhi Garden (free). Walk among 15th-century tombs set in manicured gardens. Delhi's most pleasant green space — joggers, yoga practitioners, and picnicking families.
12:00 PM - Khan Market for lunch. India's most expensive market by rent, but restaurants are mid-range. Big Chill for pasta (₹400-600), Wok in the Clouds for Asian (₹300-500), or Perch for specialty coffee (₹250-400).
2:00 PM - Qutub Minar (₹35/₹550). The 72.5m victory tower is Delhi's most iconic monument. The iron pillar that has never rusted in 1,600 years is inside the complex.
4:30 PM - Hauz Khas Village. An urban village with medieval ruins, a deer park, and trendy cafés/bars built into ancient structures. Explore the lake, ruins, and grab drinks at Social or Imperfecto.
7:30 PM - Dinner at Indian Accent (if splurging, ₹4,000-6,000 per person, India's most acclaimed restaurant) or SodaBottleOpenerWala in Khan Market for Parsi comfort food (₹600-800).
Day 3: Alternative Delhi & Day Trip Option
Option A: Explore Modern Delhi
9:00 AM - Akshardham Temple (free, no phones/cameras allowed). A modern Hindu temple complex with intricate carvings, a boat ride through Indian history, and musical fountains at night. Budget 3-4 hours.
1:00 PM - Lunch in Majnu Ka Tilla (Delhi's Tibetan colony). Momos, thukpa, and Tibetan butter tea in a labyrinth of narrow lanes. ₹200-300 for a full meal.
3:00 PM - National Museum (₹20) or National Gallery of Modern Art (₹20). Both are excellent and nearly empty on weekdays.
5:00 PM - Connaught Place for sunset shopping and architecture. The white colonnaded circles are beautifully lit at dusk. Street food at Bengali Market: chaat, chole bhature, and rabri.
Option B: Day Trip to Agra (Taj Mahal)
6:00 AM - Gatimaan Express to Agra (1h40, ₹750). Pre-book Taj Mahal tickets online (₹50 Indian, ₹1,100 foreign). Spend 2-3 hours at the Taj, 1 hour at Agra Fort. Return on evening train. Total day cost: ₹2,500-3,500 including trains, entry, lunch, and auto.
Delhi Survival Tips
Metro is your best friend: Clean, efficient, women-only cars available. Covers all major attractions. ₹20-60 per ride. Buy a tourist card for unlimited daily travel.
Auto-rickshaws: Always use Ola/Uber or insist on meter. Pre-paid autos at stations/airports are also fair. Never accept "my friend has a good shop" offers.
New Delhi Railway Station area: High-scam zone. Ignore anyone approaching you outside the station. The official tourist bureau is inside the station, NOT on the street.
Budget: ₹3,000-5,000/day covers accommodation (₹1,500), food (₹800-1,200), transport (₹500), and entries (₹500-1,000).